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| MODEL | TC20 $7995 |
TC24 $8695 |
Hay Bale Safety |
|
Bale size Diameter X Width |
20 X 28 inches |
24 X 28 inches |
|
|
Dimensions Length X Width X Height |
|
|
|
| Weight |
728
lb. |
816
lb. |
|
| Pickup width | 31
inches |
31
Inches |
|
| Capacity Bales/hour |
80-120 |
60-90 |
|
|
Tire size |
16X6.50-8-4PR |
16X6.50-8-4PR | |
|
Tractor
Horsepower Required |
18-30
HP |
30-50
HP |
|
MODEL |
TC50 $7995 | TC65 $9995 |
Disk
Mower![]() |
|
Cutting width |
50 Inches |
65 Inches |
|
|
Dimensions |
59" X 102" X 41" | 55" X 126" X 61" | |
|
Weight |
463 lb. |
662 lb. |
|
|
Number of disk |
2 | 4 | |
|
Number of knives/disk |
3 | 2 | |
|
Tractor requirement Horsepower |
18-30 HP |
30-50 HP |
| Bale Wrapper TC ELECTRIC 100 $3995 |
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| Package
Deal 1 |
Package
Deal 2 |
| Model TC99 Rotary Rake |
Model TC99 Rotary Rake |
| Model TC50 Disk Mower |
Model TC65 Disk Mower |
| Model TC20 Round Baler |
Model TC24 Round Baler |
| Model TC100 Bale Wrapper |
Model TC100 Bale Wrapper |
| $19995 Save over $3,980.00
!!! |
$21995 Save over $4,680.00 !!! |
John,
Roger
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I’m no professional
writer but I’ll try to put a few things that I’m impressed with about
both pieces of equipment.
The baler
This baler works great.
It is very compact but designed with a fairly straight forward
engineering; a few minutes studying and you’ll have it almost all
figured out. The baler will fit nicely in the corner of the barn
instead of taking up a whole bay like the old square baler did.
It comes ready to use
with exception of cutting the PTO shaft to fit your tractor (it’s easy
enough done with a hacksaw), tying a rope on the bale ejector lever to
connect to your tractor, and connecting a 9v battery. Directions are
given in the manual to do all this and from time I got it home until
ready to bale was less than 2 hours and I wasn’t in a hurry.
During the first 50
bales, the twine that came with the baler had some difficulty getting
pulled into the chamber. About 1 out 3 bales required me to reach back
while sitting on the tractor and give the white plastic twine disc a
spin before it would take off. After that spool ran out, I used the
twine I had left over from an old square baler, which is the old
standard style biodegradable twine bought at the local farm store and
the twine is a much bigger diameter. This twine worked much better than
the factory provided twine; less than one in 30 required assistance.
The older style American twine spool is also much bigger and will not
fit into the front twine chamber but a bungee cord holds it just fine
on the front. The standard American old style twine diameter is
too big for more than one strand to go through all the little pulleys
and guides on the TC baler, so any knots between spools or places
where the twine is “meshed” together by the factory causes the baler to
become unstrung but the machine is easy to restring.
The pickup is narrow but
this hasn’t been a problem. Even my old 1950’s side delivery rake
with missing tines gets the windrow good enough for this baler.
The baler attaches to the
3 point. When it’s down, the tractor is a bit difficult to steer.
I normally don’t run the baler all the way down because of the steering
issue but split the weight between the baler tires and the 3 point.
You have to stop for
every bale. With my hydrostatic, this is not an issue but might
be if you’re using a clutch. Often while the bale is wrapping, I
back up to drop the bale right where I want it, such as next to another
bale, so it’s easier to pick up. For this reason, I don’t find stopping
to be a disadvantage.
How the twine tying works
if anybody wants to know:
The arm that takes the
twine from one end to the other of the bale chamber is driven by the
twine getting pulled as it wraps around the bale. When the bale reaches
the size to be wrapped in twine, a mechanical trip point automatically
lets the arm drop so the twine will be pulled into the bale
chamber. The bale spinning in the chamber catches the twine and
begins to wrap the bale. There is a buzzer that will go off, if it has
been connected to either a 9v battery or the tractor, that warns you
the wrapping is starting and to stop feeding more hay in. The buzzer
rings until twine starts being pulled into the bale chamber and is
plenty loud. The twine being pulled by the spinning bale, turns
the plastic twine disc connected to a gear box that drives the arm. As
the arm returns to its original position, it drags the twine across a
razor blade that cuts it off. The razor blade is a standard razor
blade and will be easy to replace when it gets dull. At this point,
pull the bale ejector lever and the back opens and the bale rolls out.
Onward to next bale.
The bale:
The bale is much bigger
than I expected coming from such a compact baler. On a normal small
square bale, I can get 4 on their side across my standard pickup bed. I
can only get three of these. They are easy to handle, tightly
baled, weigh about 50lbs on grass hay, and don’t have sharp, stubbly
sides to jab in your forearms when stacking them. Because the baler has
a narrow pickup, there has been no problem of cone shaped bales.
I have stacked them on end four high with no problem. They probably
would go higher but I haven’t needed to yet. I’m still in the
experimental stages of stacking them and maybe laying them down would
work just as well.
The bales are easy to
feed out. Stand the bale on end, pull the string up off the end
and it unwraps. There is no need to have a knife to cut the twine. The
hay can be pulled off the bale while it’s on its end or lay it down and
give it a shove and the hay will unroll.
The wrapper.
This is a very simple,
easy to use machine. The design is very simple but it works. It
came with a 240v 20A motor. The plug had to be removed and converted to
an American Style 240V plug. Easy to do and available from any
hardware store. The electric motor could also be replaced in the
Put the bale on, attach
the plastic, spin the handle, wait for it to finish (about 30-40 sec
per bale), cut the plastic, remove the bale, reload and start over.
Roger